Emancipation Day Macaroni & Cheese

Macaroni & Cheese

A baked macaroni and cheese made with cheddar and Gruyère, smoked paprika, cayenne, and a touch of nutmeg.

Creamy in the middle and bronzed on top, this version is simple to make but carries a deeper story, tracing the dish back to James Hemings and the question of who gets credit for America’s most familiar comfort foods.

Watch my video to follow along step-by-step.

Orange Pistachio Date Loaf

Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Prep time: 20 minutes
Bake time: 25-30 minutes

Ingredients

• 14 oz (400 g) dried elbow macaroni

• 5 tbsp (70 g) unsalted butter

• 6 tbsp (50 g) all-purpose flour

• 4 cups (950 ml) whole milk

• 14 oz (400 g) sharp cheddar, grated

• 6 oz (170 g) Gruyère, grated

• 1 tsp smoked paprika

• 1/4 tsp cayenne

• 1/4 tsp ground or freshly grated nutmeg

• 1 tsp crushed flaky sea salt, plus more for the pasta water

• 1/2 tsp ground white pepper

Method

1. Heat the oven and boil the pasta.
   Heat the oven to 400°F / 200°C. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it well. Add the macaroni and cook until just shy of al dente. Drain and set aside. Do not rinse.

2. Divide the cheese.
   Set aside about 1 cup (130 to 150 g) of the grated cheese for the topping. Keep the rest for the sauce.

3. Make the roux.
   In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute, until smooth and lightly nutty.

4. Add the milk.
   Pour in the milk a little at a time, whisking smooth after each addition. Keep going until you have a smooth sauce. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, stirring, until it thickens lightly and coats the spoon.

5. Season and add the cheese.
   Lower the heat. Add the smoked paprika, cayenne, nutmeg, sea salt, and black pepper. Add the cheese for the sauce a handful at a time, stirring until melted before adding more. The sauce should be smooth and a little loose.

6. Combine and fill the dish.
   Add the drained macaroni and stir until every piece is coated. Transfer to a deep 9 x 13-inch casserole dish. Smooth the top, then scatter over the reserved cheese.

7. Bake.
   Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is browned in places, the edges are bubbling, and the center still has a slight wobble.

8. Rest and serve.
   Let the macaroni and cheese rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Larder Notes

• The sauce should look slightly looser than you think it should before baking. The pasta and oven will tighten it.

• For extra color on top, run it under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes at the end, watching closely.

• A mix weighted slightly toward cheddar keeps the flavor familiar, while the Gruyère adds nuttiness and depth.

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